Vinography Unboxed: Week of December 3, 2017

Hello, and welcome to my periodic dig through the samples pile. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.

This week included the newest releases from one of my favorite Pinot producers in California, Kutch Wines. I’ve told Jamie’s story at length here on Vinography, so I’ll skip the long version and simply say that the guy has been making some of the most exciting Pinot Noir in California, and now is doing the same thing with Chardonnay. These wines are not even released to his mailing list yet, so now’s your chance to get in line.

In addition, I’ve got another Pinot Noir from Foursight Wines in Anderson Valley, expressed with their usual delicacy. Their Sauvignon Blanc is also worth drinking.

Last but not least, I’ve got a Mosel Riesling from a producer that I’m not familiar with, but they might know something about making Riesling since they’ve been doing it in the little town of Kesten since 1767, climbing the precariously steep slopes of broken slate to farm their vines. And at less than $20 it’s worth looking for.

All these and more below. Enjoy.

2016 Foursight Wines “Charles Vineyard” Sauvignon Blanc, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, California
Palest greenish gold in color, this wine smells of Asian pears and golden delicious apples. In the mouth, crisp and snappy apple and pear flavors have a cool wet chalkboard minerality and a nice clean finish that has a whiff of white flowers. 12.8% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $25. click to buy.

2016 Kutch Wines Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California
Palest gold in color, this wine smells of wet chalkboard, lemon pith and white flowers. In the mouth, beautifully bright and juicy flavors of lemon pith and white flowers have a faintly sappy SweetTart sourness that makes the mouth water as notes of saline and lemon oil linger in the finish. Outstanding. 12.5% alcohol. Score: between 9.5. Cost: $50.

2014 Meirer “Kesten” Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany
Light greenish gold in color, this wine smells of crushed stones, sea air, and star fruit. In the mouth, lightly sweet flavors of star fruit, green apple and mandarin orange zest crackle with acidity. Nice floral notes linger in the finish. 8% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $19. click to buy.

2015 Foursight Wines “Clone 5” Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, California
Light ruby in color, only a few shades darker than a rosé, this wine smells of raspberry and raspberry leaf strained through freshly turned earth. In the mouth, sweetish flavors of raspberry pastilles and cherries have a wonderful juicy brightness to them thanks to excellent acidity. Only the faintest, barely perceptible wisp of tannins tickle the edges of the mouth, while notes of green herbs linger in the finish. 14.4% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $52. click to buy.

2016 Kutch Wines Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California
Light garnet in color, this wine smells of green willow bark, raspberry and cherry. In the mouth, crystalline flavors of cherry and raspberry have a wonderful purity to them, and are draped in a light blanket of suede-like tannins. Beautifully long and finishes with a touch of herbs. 12.1% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $45.

2016 Kutch Wines “Bohan Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California
Light garnet in color, this wine smells of green herbs and wet earth and red berries. In the mouth, suede-like tannins lightly grip otherwise silky flavors of raspberry, cherry and earth. Gorgeous acidity brings with it a touch of citrus peel brightness that combines with earth and freshly chopped herbs in the finish. 11.3% alcohol Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $70.

2016 Kutch Wines “Signal Ridge Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Mendocino Ridge, Mendocino County, California
Light garnet in color, this wine smells of redcurrant and raspberries and green wood bark. In the mouth, silky flavors of raspberry and redcurrant mix with darker notes of earth and herbs as ever-so-faint tannins brush the edges of the mouth. Gorgeous acidity and length with a wonderful minerality to it. 12% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $65.

2016 Kutch Wines “McDougall Ranch” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of raspberry and dried flowers. In the mouth, gorgeously juicy raspberry and cherry flavors have a faint gauzy texture of tannins. Beautiful cherry notes linger in the finish with hints of herbs. Excellent acidity. 12% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $65.

2016 Kutch Wines “Falstaff Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California
Light garnet in color, this wine smells of green herbs and raspberries and raspberry leaf. In the mouth, wonderfully bright cherry and raspberry flavors have a beautiful aromatic sweetness to them and a touch of cedar. Lightly tacky tannins linger in the finish along with notes of dried flowers and cherry cordials. Fantastic. This bottling isn’t usually my favorite of Kutch’s wines, but this year it’s shining. 12% alcohol. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $65.

from Vinography Unboxed: Week of December 3, 2017

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