I'll Drink to That: Wine Writer Patrick Comiskey

Episode 436 of I’ll Drink to That! was released recently, and it features Patrick Comiskey, a wine writer for both Wine & Spirits Magazine and the Los Angeles Times. He is also the author of American Rhône: How Maverick Winemakers Changed the Way Americans Drink.

Winemakers with tons of personality and an anti-establishment vibe. Agit prop writing extolling a pioneer spirit and a new wine revolution. Wines offered with immediate drinking in mind. Fun gatherings that became semi-legendary. Extensive media excitement surrounding wines that aren’t stuffy. An inherent tension between possibly making wines that you can drink right out of the gate, and wines that might be more serious and terroir-driven. These statements might reasonably describe the current Natural Wine scene, which is flourishing right at this moment. But Patrick Comiskey never mentions Natural Wine in his interview. Instead, Patrick applies these descriptions to the Rhône Rangers movement of American winemakers using Rhône grape varieties, and his contention is that the Rhône Rangers of the 1980s pioneered an attitude and a marketing effort that has been recycled by other new entrants into the American wine market many times over. He argues, for instance, that the Anything But Chardonnay! rallying cry that brought Viognier to prominence was subsequently taken up by any number of other the possibilities vying for market share. His point is that the Rhône Rangers were a spearhead for all the market change that then followed, as drinkers moved away from a stasis of Cab/Merlot and Chard/SB. Is it true that we as consumers constantly return to the same tropes, but in new bottles? That is something you’ll have to decide for yourself as Patrick breaks down his case, and as he pulls together historical anecdotes and draws on several interviews with winemakers to add color.

Listen to the stream above, or check it out on Apple Podcasts, on Stitcher, Google Play Music or check it out on YouTube.

I’ll Drink to That is the world’s most listened-to wine podcast, hosted by Levi Dalton. Levi has had a long career working as a sommelier in some of the most distinguished and acclaimed dining rooms in America. He has served wine to guests of Restaurant Daniel, Masa, and Alto, all in Manhattan. Levi has also contributed articles on wine themes to publications such as The Art of Eating, Wine & Spirits magazine, Bon Appetit online, and Eater NY. Check out his pictures on Instagram and follow him on Twitter: @leviopenswine

from I’ll Drink to That: Wine Writer Patrick Comiskey

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Wine News: What I'm Reading the Week of 11/26/17

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

Tavel: The Fourth Wine
Meg Maker on classy rosé.  

Netherlands Poised to Gain First PDO Wine Region
Dutch wine!

Jefford on Monday: La Livinière and the lion race
Andrew Jefford backs the dark horse.

Wine-making At the Foot of Snow-covered Kazakh Mountains
Very pretty.

Giving the Champagne Flute Some Well-Deserved Love and Support
Jameson Fink likes an underdog.

Competitors Circle Amazon’s Wine Business
Liza Zimmerman reports.

Where Burgundy meets New Zealand
Elaine Brown reports on an unusual collaboration.

Time to learn Portuguese?
Jancis does her best.

Luigi Veronelli: The Italian Wine Journalist Who Fought for Passion
Catherine Todd gets to spend an evening “with” Luigi Veronelli

Wine Country Still Hurting After Fires
A long road ahead.

What Hugh saw in California
Hugh Johnson visits after the fires.

Calm down, dear
Sarah Abbott talks gender

How does a 1918 Lafite hold up in 2017? We found out in a wine tasting at UH
Lucky people get to taste old wines.

Why Zinfandel Lovers Should Head to Croatia
Not just for the wine.

Online wine auctions become $50m market
Ella Lister on the changing auction market.

En primeur wine futures system loses authority
Prices can’t go up forever.

How to digitally downsize your wine cellar
“Excess wine” — definitely a first world problem

California winemakers face life after fires
A report from a British point of view

How High Elevation Wines are Taking Spain to New Heights
Some surprising wines in here for sure.

Switzerland: Your Unexpected Next Wine Destination
Says Vogue.

Wine-loving Edina software geek wants to help you create ‘great memories’
iPad wine list guy talks to Bill Ward.

For Savennieres, Age Comes With Benefits
Eric Asimov puts Americans through the challenges of Savennieres.

Goblet of fire: how spat-out wine is being turned into spirits
Distilled from….spit?

Australian Wine That’s Crazier Than a Coconut
Rootstock is where it’s at.

Different kinds of alcohol might make you feel different emotions
This is the viral news story of the week.

Sales of dry sherry soar as hipster generation drives revival
But still good news.

Fine Wine Might Be One of the Safest Investments for Your Money
Read the caveat emptor bit at the bottom before you buy.

Hungary’s wine scene a hidden gem
Yes indeed!

New Translation of Medieval Arab Poetry in Praise of Wine to be Released
The world needs more poetry about the world’s most poetic drink.

How a Comedy Website Came to Sell Wine to Survive
A modern business story.

Anson: Fifty shades of green – Wine’s big new debate?
Everyone wants the sustainable label, for myriad reasons, some good, some bad.

Colorado Wine Lovers Have A New Hero: The State’s First Master Of Wine
And another great woman joining the ranks.

After The Worst Fire In 40 Years, Wine Still Flows In Napa Valley
Business as usual. Please visit.

Selling Your Italian Wine to the US Market – My 15 Minute Talk
This man knows of what he speaks after 40 years.

from Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 11/26/17

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Vinography Unboxed: Week of November 19, 2017

Hello, and welcome to my periodic dig through the samples pile. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.

This week included a new bottling from the tiny producer Aperture Cellars, one of whose partners is Andy Katz, the photographer whose images I feature here on the site. His son, Jesse Katz is one of California’s young superstar winemakers, and his Malbecs, which he and his father release under the Devil Proof label. This one, from the Rockpile AVA, happens to be a new source of vineyard fruit for them.

I also received some interesting samples from Chateau Picoron, a tiny 12 acre estate in the Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon Appellation. The estate has been producing wine since 1551, but the estate was recently purchased by a husband and wife from Australia.

The recent streak of Italian wine continues with a Chianti from Principe Corsini and two wines from Podere Forte in Orcia.

Finally, there’s the ever-elegant Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs, one of California’s most reliable sparkling wines.

All these and more below. Enjoy.

2013 Schramsberg “Blanc de Noirs” Pinot Noir, North Coast, California
Light gold in the glass with medium fine bubbles, this wine smells of orange peel and apples and a touch of bread crust. In the mouth, golden apples and pears mix with a touch of pomegranate and cherry berry flavor. Nice acidity and balance. Contains 15% Chardonnay. 12.9% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $35. click to buy.

2015 Chateau Picoron “Petit Picoron” Merlot, Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon, Bordeaux, France
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of sawdust and cherries. In the mouth, juicy flavors of cherry and black cherry positively burst with excellent acidity. Powdery tannins drape gauzily over the fruit and linger with the floral cherry flavors in the finish. Excellent. No alcohol shown on the label. Score: around 9. Cost: $20.

2014 Principe Corsini “Le Corti” Red Blend, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of cherry, sour cherry, and sawdust. In the mouth, muscular, pushy tannins elbow their way around the mouth to make room for flavors of cherry, dried cherry, and dried herbs. This is a wine that will need some time before most people think it highly drinkable. 13.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $24. click to buy.

2014 Podere Forte “Petruccino” Sangiovese, Orcia, Tuscany, Italy
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of cherry and sandalwood. In the mouth, sweet cherry and oak and hints of brown sugar have a nice brightness to them thanks to excellent acidity. Tightly wound, fine grained tannins linger in the finish with a hint of orange peel. 13.5% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $35.

2013 Podere Forte “Guardiavigna” Red Blend, Tuscany, Italy
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of struck match and dark cherry fruit. In the mouth, a touch of barnyard flavor suggests a bit of brettanomyces along with flavors of dark cherry, leather, and a touch of camphor. Fine grained tannins and decent acidity. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $81.

2014 Mt. Brave Merlot, Mount Veeder, Napa, California
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of sweet cherry and plum and a hint of oak. In the mouth, sweet cherry and plum flavors are wrapped in a tight fist of fine grained tannins. Excellent acidity and length. After a year or three, this wine will likely open up beautifully. 14.5% alcohol. 532 cases produced. Score: around 9. Cost: $75. click to buy.

2014 Tierra Roja Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa, California
Inky garnet in color, this wine smells of sweet cherry and mocha. In the mouth, flavors of cherry, cola, and mocha are oak inflected but not, thankfully, to the point of offensiveness. Excellent acidity and length. While I would appreciate tasting less wood than I do, this wine is quite fine. Barrel fermented. 14.8% alcohol. 225 cases produced. Score: around 9. Cost: $155. click to buy.

2015 Devil Proof “Rockpile Ridge” Malbec, Rockpile, Sonoma, California
Opaque, inky purple in the glass, this wine smells of cassis, cherry and blueberry. In the mouth, intense flavors of blueberry, black cherry and boysenberry have a slightly high-toned aspect, but a rich depth of fruit that lingers through a long finish. Excellent acidity. Give this wine a couple of years to calm down and it will sing beautifully. 14.4% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $150.

from Vinography Unboxed: Week of November 19, 2017

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Global Greats: Highlights from the 2017 Wine & Spirits Top 100

I attend a lot of public tasting events for the same reason I tell my readers to attend them. They are simply the best way to educate the palate, and often the only way to get a chance to taste certain wines that you might not otherwise have a chance to afford. Such tastings can be quite exhausting and by the end of the event, I’m usually ready to take a nap.

At the end of the annual Wine & Spirits Top 100 tasting every year, however, I find myself wishing I had another couple of hours to wander around and taste wine. Perhaps this is partly because of the bottomless oyster bar with fresh kumamoto oysters, a welcome respite from rounds of tasting, but mostly the wines on offer are generally of such high quality that I simply would like to taste them all.

Put on by Wine & Spirits Magazine, the tasting is a showcase of (most, but not all) the wineries that have made the magazine’s annual list of Top 100 Wineries around the world. Such annual lists have only marginal value from my perspective, and often contain the same players over and over again, but it’s certainly hard to deny the quality of the wines on offer at this particular tasting, which inevitably, is one of the best public wine tastings all year in San Francisco.

Held at the City View event space at the Metreon building in San Francisco, this event particularly benefits from good weather, offering spectacular views of the city during the tasting.

Per usual, this year’s tasting, held on October 10th, was jam packed with fantastic wines from around the world, as well as tasty bites from the magazine’s top 25 San Francisco restaurants. As with many such public tastings, I can either take my time to write tasting notes on fewer wines, or I can rate a larger number. I decided to range widely and taste a lot, so what you get are just scores below, which you can take with the requisite grain of salt. I’ve provided links to purchase as many of the wines as I could dredge up retailers for on Wine-Searcher.

Enjoy!

WHITE & PINK WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9.5 AND 10
MV Chambers Rosewood Vineyards Grand Muscat, Rutherglen, Australia. $70 (375ml)
NV Krug Brut Grande Cuvée, Champagne, France. $149

WHITE & PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2015 C. von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Superior, Mosel, Germany. $33
MV Chambers Rosewood Vineyards Rare Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia. $200 (375 ml)
NV Dosnon Brut Rosé Champagne, France. $53
2014 Evening Land La Source Seven Springs Vineyard Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon. $80.
MV Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Spain. $20.
2004 Iron Horse Joy!, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California. $95
2014 Terroir al Limit Pedra de Guix, Priorat, Spain. $70

WHITE & PINK WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
1980 Blandy’s Terrantez Medium Rich, Madeira, Portugal. $??
2014 C. von Schubert Kabinett Maximin Grünhauser Herrenberg Riesling, Mosel, Germany. $
2015 Champalou Les Tries, Vouvray, Loire Valley, France. $63.
2014 Domaine Chanson Les Chenevottes, Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy, France. $167.
NV Dosnon Brut Récolte Blanche, Champagne, France. $55
2016 Gaia Thalassitis, Santorini, Greece. $27.
2015 Inglenook Blancaneaux, Rutherford Napa Valley, California. $65
2014 Maison Louis Jadot Les Demoiselles Domaine des Heritiers, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France. $350
2009 Louis Roederer Brut Nature Philippe Starck, Champagne, France. $78
2012 Luneau-Papin Terre de Pierre, Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Loire Valley, France. $24
2014 Movia Sauvignon, Brda, Slovenia. $33.
2013 Prinz Salm Felseneck Wallhausen Riesling Spätlese, Nahe, Germany. $30.
2015 Robert Weil Spätlese Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling, Rheingau, Germany. $66
2015 Salomon Undhof Steiner Kögl Erste Lage Reserve Riesling, Kremstal, Austria. $28
2015 Salomon Undhof Von Stein Reserve Gruner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria. $44
2015 Soalheiro Granit Mineral Selection, Vinho Verde, Portugal. $13
2014 Zind-Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl Riesling, Alsace, France. $80.

WHITE & PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2016 Anselmo Mendes Contacto, Vinho Verde, Portugal. $19
2014 Forjas del Salnés Leirana Finca Genoveva, Rias Baixas, Spain. $50.
2016 Gaia Wild Ferment Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece. $28.
2011 Louis Roederer Brut Rosé, Champagne, France. $70.
2015 Radio-Coteau Wingtine Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California. $65.
2014 Red Car Hagan Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California. $58.
2015 Robert Weil Grosses Gewachs Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling, Rheingau, Germany. $80.
2014 Skerlj Vitovska, Venezia Giulia, Italy. $27
2016 Skinner Grenache Blanc, El Dorado, Sierra Foothills, California. $24.
2015 Vadiaperti Aiperti, Fiano de Avelino, Campania, Italy. $??
2015 Yalumba The Virgilius Viognier, Eden Valley, South Australia. $84.
2014 Zind-Humbrecht Rangen de Thann Grand Cru Clos Saint Urbain Riesling, Alsace, France. $105

WHITE & PINK WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9
2014 Anselmo Mendes Expressoes, Vinho Verde, Portugal
2015 DeMorgenzon DMZ Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape, South Africa
2014 Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon, Savennieres, Loire Valley, France
2016 Giant Steps Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia
2016 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia
2011 Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
2014 Luneau-Papin Sur Lie Clos des Allees, Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Loire Valley, France
2011 Maison Louis Jadot Domaine Duc de Magenta Clos de la Garenne, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, Burgundy, France
2014 Movia Sivi Pinot Grigio, Brda, Slovenia
2015 Ravines White Springs Vineyard Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York

WHITE & PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5
2015 Champalou Les Fondraux, Vouvray, Loire Valley, France
2013 DeMorgenzon The Divas Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa
2016 Soalheiro Alvarinho, Vino Verde, Portugal
2015 Vadiaperti Coda de Volpe, Irpinia, Campania, Italy

RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9.5 AND 10
2013 Corison Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California. $

RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2012 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Monvigliero, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. $
2014 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena Napa Valley, California. $
2015 Domaine Faury Vieilles Vignes, Saint Joseph, Rhone Valley, France. $
2015 Domaine Faury, Cote-Rotie, Rhone Valley, France. $
2014 Red Car Docs Ranch Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California. $
2014 Terroir al Limit Les Manyes, Priorat, Spain. $
2012 Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia. $

RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2014 Adelsheim Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, Willamette Valley, Oregon. $
2015 aMaurice Fred Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. $
2014 aMaurice Owl and Crown, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. $
2013 aMaurice Night Owl, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. $
2014 Bernard Baudry Les Grezeaux, Chinon, Loire Valley, France. $
2014 Evening Land La Source Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon. $
2012 Fratelli Alessandria Gramolere, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. $
2010 Fuligni Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy. $
2015 Gaia Agiorgitiko by GAIA, Nemea, Greece. $
2010 Genium Celler , Priorat, Spain. $
2016 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. $
2014 Gramercy Cellars John Lewis Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. $
2014 Gramercy Cellars , Lagniappe Syrah , Washington. $
2012 Penfolds Grange, South Australia, . $
2012 Le Ragnaie VV, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy. $
2012 Le Ragnaie Fornace, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy. $
2014 Red Car Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California. $
2014 Reynvaan In the Hills Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. $70
2014 Skinner Estate Mourvedre, El Dorado County, Sierra Foothills, California. $
2014 Tinto Negro Finca La Escuela La Piedra Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina. $
2014 Viña Undurraga T.H. [Terroir Hunter] Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon, Alto Maipo, Chile. $
2013 Vadio Wines, Bairrada, Portugal. $
2014 The Withers Mr. Burgess, El Dorado County, Sierra Foothills, California. $

RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2014 Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina. $
2013 Andrew Will Sorella Champoux Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington. $
2016 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Pelaverga, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy. $
2014 Col Solare Collector’s Society Red Wine, Red Mountain, Washington. $
2016 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Cinsault, Itata Valley, Chile. $
2013 DeLille Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Washington. $
2014 Gramercy Cellars Third Man Grenache, Columbia Valley, Washington. $
2013 Inglenook Cabernet, Rutherford Napa Valley, California. $
2014 J. Christopher Sandra Adele Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon. $
2013 Le Macchiole Messorio, Tuscany, Italy. $
2015 Le Macchiole Rosso, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy. $
2014 Penfolds RWT (Bin 798?) Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia. $
2014 Radio-Coteau Terra Neuma Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California. $
2014 Reynvaan In the Rocks Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. $85
2013 Silverado Vineyards Solo Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, California. $
2013 Silverado Vineyards GEO Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville, Napa Valley, California. $
2013 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District Napa Valley, California. $
2012 Tapiz Selección de Barricas Reserve San Pablo Vineyard, Mendoza, Argentina. $
2014 Tinto Negro Vineyard 1955 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina. $
2014 Viña Undurraga T.H. [Terroir Hunter] Barrana Syrah, Limarí, Chile. $
2012 Vadio Wines Grande, Bairrada, Portugal. $
2012 Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5, Ribera del Duero, Spain. $

RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9
2014 Adelsheim Breaking Ground Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, Willamette Valley, Oregon. $
2015 Bernard Baudry , Chinon, Loire Valley, France. $
2014 Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Washington. $
2014 De Martino Las Cruces Old Vine, Cachapoal Valley, Chile. $
2014 DeLille D2 Red Wine, Columbia Valley, Washington. $
2015 Fratelli Alessandria Speziale Pelaverga, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy. $
2011 Fuligni , Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy. $
2012 Genium Celler Poboleda Vi de la Vila, Priorat, Spain. $
2014 J. Christopher Nuages Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, Willamette Valley, Oregon. $
2015 Occhipinti SP68, Sicily, Italy. $
2011 Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. $
2014 Produttori del Barbaresco , Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy. $
2014 Tapiz Alta Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina. $

RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5
2005 Vega Sicilia Unico, Ribera del Duero, Spain. $

from Global Greats: Highlights from the 2017 Wine & Spirits Top 100

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Vinography Images: Row of Shadows

Row of Shadows
SAUTERNES, FRANCE: The last light of the setting sun casts shadows through the trees at Château d’Yquem in Sauternes, an appellation within the Graves region of Bordeaux. In the famous 1855 Classification of Bordeaux, d’Yquem was the only winery in the Sauternes region to be accorded the status of Premiere Cru Supérieur. Its sweet dessert wines are among the most famous, and long lived, in the world.

INSTRUCTIONS:
Download this image by right-clicking on the image and selecting “save link as” or “save target as” and then select the desired location on your computer to save the image. Mac users can also just click the image to open the full size view and drag that to their desktops.

To set the image as your desktop wallpaper, Mac users should follow these instructions, while PC users should follow these.

BUY THE BOOK:
This image is from a series of photographs captured by Andy Katz in the process of shooting his most recent work The Club of Nine, a visual exploration and celebration of Bordeaux’s top Chateaux. The book is available for $60 on Andy’s web site.

PRINTS:
If you are interested in owning an archive quality, limited edition print of this image please contact Andy directly.

ABOUT VINOGRAPHY IMAGES:
Vinography regularly features images by photographer Andy Katz for readers’ personal use as desktop backgrounds or screen savers. We hope you enjoy them. Please respect the copyright on these images. These images are not to be reposted on any web site or blog without the express permission of the photographer.

from Vinography Images: Row of Shadows

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Wine News: What I'm Reading the Week of November 20, 2017

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

That unsold bottle of Merlot is probably winding up in your gas tank
Where unsellable wine goes to die…

Napa’s Colgin Cellars Sells Majority Stake to French Luxury Titan LVMH
Another notch in Napa’s belt.

The Pros and Cons of Shelf Talkers
The world according to retailers.

Should Wine Labels List Ingredients?
My opinion: yes.

How Venice’s Lagoon Is Producing Some Of Italy’s Most Beguiling Wines
Eco resort turns winery.

Surprise: Sauternes Is The Perfect Thanksgiving Wine
So says Jeanne O’Brien Coffee

Jefford on Monday: The white question
The white wines of Priorat

Why the Grape Needs the Grain
Oliver Styles on the role of beer in the wine world.

In the wake of the fires, Napa winery visitorship slow to return to normal
Slow, slow climb.

When a Greek God Brought Wine to India
A very cool story.

Help Wine Country re-oak with your acorns
A fantastic community project.

I Tried a Bottle of the New Synthetic Wine
Life is too short.

Climate Change Ripens Prospects For German Winemakers
More consistently ripe.

Wine: if you’re after a bargain, look to Romania
Cheap and (sometimes) cheerful.

2017 Harvest Report: A Roller-Coaster Growing Season for Oregon and Washington
The Spectator reports on the Northwest harvest.

Everyone Wants an Experience
Matt Kramer says wine is entertainment now.

Neighbors: Massive Gallo winery could mean ‘free-for-all’ in Lodi wine country
Zoned for agriculture but this is more like a factory, say neighbors.

Alcohol percentages of Wine Spectator’s Top 10 wines of 2017
Nope. No one cares.

Wine collector fraud, and wine snobbery
From the bible forward….

Wine Critic Neal Martin Joins Vinous as Senior Editor
Hard to see this as anything other than a major blow to Parker

Does Pinot Meunier Have What it Takes to Be a Star?
There is a Meunier Institute?

Don’t Count Amazon Out of Wine Game Just Yet
The giant will return

Champagne’s Special Club
Skurnik talks about the history of these bottling

10 years writing about cheap wine on the Internet: Haven’t we gotten rid of you yet?
The Wine Curmudgeon looks back on the last 10 years.

A Guide to the Current State of California Cabernet
Jon Bonné on Cab

A $1,000 bottle of wine grows in Brooklyn on a first-of-its-kind rooftop vine
Ah, the taste of hubris…

from Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of November 20, 2017

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Vinography Unboxed: Week of November 12, 2017

Hello, and welcome to my periodic dig through the samples pile. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.

This week included among other things, some new releases from a winery I’d never heard of, named Aridus in Arizona. Now Arizona has been producing wine for some time, and several competent ones have crossed my dinner table in recent years, but the wines this week were on a different level than those I’ve had before — more restrained, more refined, and deliciously not over-ripe, which has long been my main complaint about Arizona wines, even the really good ones.

Aridus, as it turns out, is a big custom crush facility that has decided to make their own wines, and they seem off to a particularly auspicious start. While they all seem to have just a touch more oak than I’d like, they’re all quite delicious and worth seeking out, especially the Tempranillo and Malbec.

Moving on, the two latest releases from Lang & Reed winery were predictably delightful, and the Chenin is, I dare say, the best they’ve ever made.

Schramsberg made an appearance this week with their Brut Rosé that remains deliciously true to form.

And I opened one of the newest releases from Troon Vineyard which happened to be their orange wine, made from Riesling no less and wonderfully tasty. I highly recommend it for those who enjoy orange wines as ones made from Riesling are exceedingly rare.

All these and more below. Enjoy.

2016 Aridus Malvasia Bianca, Arizona
Pale greenish gold in color, this wine smells of wet chalkboard, green melon and candied green apple. In the mouth, floral flavors of green apple and green melon have a wonderfully crisp snap to them thanks to excellent acidity and very little trace of sweetness. Quite fruity. 14% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??

2016 Lang & Reed Chenin Blanc, Napa Valley, California
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of unripe apple and pears. In the mouth, pear and green apple flavors are touched with lime zest and a hint of membrillo. Clean crisp and brilliantly delicious. This is now the fourth vintage of production and definitely the best yet. A touch of vanilla lingers in the finish. 13.5% alcohol. 248 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $27 click to buy.

2014 Schramsberg Brut Rosé Sparkling Pinot Noir, North Coast, California
Pale baby pink in color with fine bubbles, this wine smells of rosehips and orange peels and strawberry. In the mouth, a moderately soft mousse delivers flavors of berries, citrus peel and a hint of saline. Crisp and bright and just what you want. 12.7% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $36. click to buy.

2016 Troon Vineyard “Whole Grape Ferment” Riesling, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon
Very dark gold in color with a touch of amber thanks to fermentation on the skins for an extended length of time, this wine smells of wet leaves, cooked quince, and dried orange peel. In the mouth, faint tannins drape a core of poached pear, potpourri, candied orange peel and wet stone flavors. Excellent acidity and a nice savory herbal note lingers in the finish. 12% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $20. click to buy.

2014 Alois Lageder Lagrein, Sudtirol – Alto Adige, Italy
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of struck match and wet campfire. In the mouth, blackberry, blueberry, and mulberry flavors have a cool stony minerality to them, with fine grained powdery tannins that coat the mouth. Excellent acidity. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $22 click to buy.

2014 Lang & Reed “Two Fourteen” Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley, California
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of rich ripe plums with a hint of Nutella. In the mouth, bright berry flavors are plummy and rich with notes of cocoa powder and sour cherry. Wonderfully juicy thanks to excellent acidity. 14.5% alcohol. 849 cases made. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $52 click to buy.

2015 Aridus Tempranillo, Arizona
Light to medium ruby in the glass, this wine smells of brown sugar, candied berries, and a touch of oak. In the mouth, aromatically sweet flavors of red berries, brown sugar, and toasted oak have a cola note that lingers on the finish. Made with a very deft hand, and finishing at a remarkably lean 12.9% alcohol. One of the most interesting wines I’ve had from Arizona. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??

2015 Aridus Malbec, Arizona
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberry and mulberry with a touch of floral aroma on top. In the mouth, very elegant and light bodied flavors of blueberry, black cherry and wet chalkboard are touched with the kiss of oak, leaving a sweet aroma in the finish. Excellent acidity, and surprisingly lithe in its restrained 13.8% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??

2014 Aridus Petite Sirah, Arizona
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of wet campfire and carob dust. In the mouth, remarkably aromatic flavors of camphor wood, cassis, blackberry and nutmeg have a wonderfully mineral backbone and hints of powdery tannins dusting the edges of the mouth. Quite distinct and unusual, recalling somewhat tangentially the “coffee” style of Pinotage from South Africa. This means perhaps too much wood influence, but the effect is charming. 14.2% alcohol Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??

from Vinography Unboxed: Week of November 12, 2017

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Perfect Berries GIRONDE, FRANCE: Gorgeous, deeply-hued Cabernet berries prepare for fermentation at...

Perfect Berries
GIRONDE, FRANCE: Gorgeous, deeply-hued Cabernet berries prepare for fermentation at Chateau Ausone in Gironde on Bordeaux’s Right Bank near Saint-Émilion. Ausone is one of only 4 wines classified as Premier Grand Cru Classé in the Saint-Émilion classification.

INSTRUCTIONS:
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BUY THE BOOK:
This image is from a series of photographs captured by Andy Katz in the process of shooting his most recent work The Club of Nine, a visual exploration and celebration of Bordeaux’s top Chateaux. The book is available for $60 on Andy’s web site.

PRINTS:
If you are interested in owning an archive quality, limited edition print of this image please contact Andy directly.

ABOUT VINOGRAPHY IMAGES:
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I'll Drink to That: Winemaker Samuel Guibert

Episode 435 of I’ll Drink to That! was released recently, and it features Samuel Guibert, the co-owner and winemaker at Mas de Daumas Gassac in the Languedoc region of France.

Aimé Guibert was a legend in the wine world, someone who carved out an new estate in the Languedoc out of pure forest, and who went on to win worldwide acclaim for the wines produced there. Aimé’s son Samuel Guibert candidly admits in this interview that it can be hard to follow a father who found such success. Samuel is very aware of what his father achieved, and is clear in this interview about what he has done himself to evolve the style of the wines at Mas de Daumas Gassac. He also explains many of the unusual details that go into the makeup of a Mas de Daumas Gassac wine, from a highly irregular blend of grape varieties to a specific microclimate and soil type. And there is lots of historical context about the wines of the Languedoc region and the change that Mas de Daumas Gassac represented to the area when it was formed. If you are curious about what makes the wines of Mas de Daumas Gassac unique, this interview is a treasure trove.

Listen to the stream above, or check it out in iTunes, on Stitcher, Google Play Music or check it out on YouTube.

I’ll Drink to That is the world’s most listened-to wine podcast, hosted by Levi Dalton. Levi has had a long career working as a sommelier in some of the most distinguished and acclaimed dining rooms in America. He has served wine to guests of Restaurant Daniel, Masa, and Alto, all in Manhattan. Levi has also contributed articles on wine themes to publications such as The Art of Eating, Wine & Spirits magazine, Bon Appetit online, and Eater NY. Check out his pictures on Instagram and follow him on Twitter: @leviopenswine

from I’ll Drink to That: Winemaker Samuel Guibert

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Wine News: What I'm Reading the Week of 11/12/17

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

Demand Strong for Flash Wine Treatment After Fires
A lot of people are going to say “better safe than sorry.”

Arabian Whites: Promoting Wine in the Middle East
1001?

Anson: Reprieve for creator of long-lost Bordeaux wine
Jane Anson interviews the man at the centre of one of Bordeaux wine’s more controversial stories.

The Improbable New Wine Countries That Climate Change is Creating
This is just the warm up act.

After Fires, California Wine Country Wants Tourists Back
Yes, please.

Saving the World with Smith Haut Lafitte
This Bordeaux producer is cleaning up its act.

Albania’s wine renaissance
Need to try me some of this stuff.

Jefford on Monday: The good and the right
Get out of your comfort zone, says Andrew.

The cult of natural wine – ‘this is like punk or acid house’
The Guardian discovers natural wine.

Peace, Love and Amarone?
All’s well that ends well?

Burglar stole expensive wine by putting bottles down his pants, police say
Not so easy to do…

Fraudster’s Wines for Sale
A fool and his money are soon parted.

Alberto Tasca: Indigenous Grape Varieties Will Drive Sicily’s Wine Revolution
As they should.

Men and women don’t actually have different taste in wine
Blake discusses a recent research paper.

Do men and women taste differently?
And Robert Joseph offers the counterpoint.

The deep roots of terroir
Not the roots, the bugs.

North Coast winemakers clear the air on ‘smoke taint’
The jury is still out.

Wine From Prehistoric Georgia With an 8,000-Year-Old Vintage
This is the story of the week.

Livermore wineries report bump in business after North Bay wildfires
People really are avoiding Napa and Sonoma.

Three steps to sustainable Californian wine
How it gets done

Why You Should Start Paying Attention to English Sparkling Wine
Because they’re good.

AOC Ventoux Wines: The Englishman Who Sparked A Renaissance in Quality
The first non-coop estate.

Sonoma Tasting Room Battle Heats Up
Liza B. Zimmerman finds rumblings of discontent.

What the Clos de Tart sale means for the future of Burgundy
Tim offers his thoughts.

Ted Hall’s Fight to Save His Napa Winery From Wildfires
Heroic efforts on behalf of the firefighters.

Rapid Test Identifies Wildfire Taint in Wine Grapes
Something many are thinking about.

The Most Expensive Bottle of Wine Ever Sold Is a $350,000 California Cabernet Sauvignon
Well, there’s a new trivia night answer for you….

Made in Serbia
Serbian wine is a thing.

Ups, downs and naturalistas in Burgundy
Jancis reads the tea leaves.

Wine writing is drowning
Not waving, but drowning.

Can new winemaker fix Wine Country’s ‘Napathy’ problem?
Or more specifically a younger winery owner?

Kosta Browne reverses course on its lush, ripe Pinot Noir style
But not really.

Your Guide to the Other California Cabernet
Punch picks a few.

from Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 11/12/17

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I'll Drink to That: Lodovico Antinori

Episode 434 of I’ll Drink to That! was released recently, and it features Lodovico Antinori, a partner in Tenuta di Biserno and Tenuta Campo di Sasso, both in the Maremma area of Tuscany. He was also the founder of Tenuta dell’Ornellaia in Bolgheri.

Lodovico Antinori grew up in traditionally posh surroundings in Florence, but became fascinated with the open spaces and pioneer attitudes he encountered when visiting California as a young man. So much so, that he planned to open a winery in California’s central coast. But a key figure convinced Lodovico to instead return to Italy to make his mark – André Tchelistcheff, the famed winemaker. Tchelistcheff declared to Lodovico that he had “an El Dorado” amongst his family holdings in Bolgheri, and with Tchelistcheff’s help Lodovico broke ground on Tenuta dell’Ornellaia there. This interview contains several little known details about that key period in the development of the Super Tuscan wave, which by the mid 1990s would become a true market phenomenon. Lodovico is quite open about his feelings at the time, and acknowledges other key players in the development. He also is frank about the conditions that led to the sale of the Ornellaia winery and brand in 2001. But more than one man’s personal story, this episode of I’ll Drink to That! is also a deep dive into the wines of the Maremma and that area as whole, covering grape varieties, soil types, growing conditions, and the wine history of the place. If you are looking to understand the context behind the many successful Super Tuscan wine brands, this is a key interview to listen to.

Listen to the stream above, or check it out in iTunes, on Stitcher, Google Play Music or check it out on YouTube.

I’ll Drink to That is the world’s most listened-to wine podcast, hosted by Levi Dalton. Levi has had a long career working as a sommelier in some of the most distinguished and acclaimed dining rooms in America. He has served wine to guests of Restaurant Daniel, Masa, and Alto, all in Manhattan. Levi has also contributed articles on wine themes to publications such as The Art of Eating, Wine & Spirits magazine, Bon Appetit online, and Eater NY. Check out his pictures on Instagram and follow him on Twitter: @leviopenswine

from I’ll Drink to That: Lodovico Antinori

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Long Road Ahead for Wine Country

Do you live in London or nearby? Or do you have plans to be there in December? If so, I urge you to join Jancis Robinson on December 2 at the 67 Pall Mall Club for a special fundraiser benefitting California fire victims. Learn more about the event here.

On 8 October, Nick Solga and his girlfriend Katie Bower (pictured above with what remains of their house) were relaxing at home and getting ready to go to bed after a long day touring wine country with Katie’s parents, who were visiting from out of town. Their little French bulldog circled restlessly in their bedroom on the third floor of their townhome in Santa Rosa, California, as winds howled across their balcony outside.

Solga, who offers PR and marketing services to various wineries, recalled smelling smoke. ‘I asked Katie if she had blown out a candle or something, but she hadn’t, so we went out on the balcony and smelled smoke on the wind. We looked around to see if we could see any fire, but we couldn’t.’

The couple were nervous enough that they didn’t go to sleep. Instead they went out onto their street where many of their neighbours were doing similar investigations and gossiping quietly on the street at midnight.

‘There were college kids sitting on the back of cars and we asked them if they had seen anything, and they said they hadn’t but I remember them saying how eerie it felt, and I remember they were exactly right. It was just eerie. One of my older neighbours said he had never seen winds this strong in all his years living there’, said Solga.

Katie was worried enough that she called the Santa Rosa Fire Department. She was asked if she could see an active fire. She said no, and was admonished not to call the fire department unless there was an active fire.

‘We didn’t go back to bed’, said Solga. ‘It was 12.20 in the morning and we kept looking out the window, and I got onto social media and started poking around. I remember seeing a photo of a fire on George Rose’s Facebook page [George Rose is the photographer responsible for many of the images we have published recently – JR], and finding the first alerts about residents of Santa Rosa near Mark West Springs Road needing to prepare to take cover. But it was quiet in our neighbourhood. We got no alerts, and no calls.’

And then at 12.55 Katie called to Nick from downstairs. ‘”The moon is red”, she said, and I came downstairs to stand with her and watched it go from deep red to being completely obscured by smoke. Then I looked down and saw that there was ash accumulating on the back patio.’

‘We went back out front’, continued Solga, ‘and saw the orange glow over the hills behind where Paradise Ridge Winery was, and that’s when I decided we needed to get out.’

Read the rest of the story on JancisRobinson.Com. (free for everyone to read this week).

This article is my monthly column at JancisRobinson.Com, Alder on America, and is available only to subscribers of her web site. If you’re not familiar with the site, I urge you to give it a try. It’s only £8.50 a month or £85 per year ($11/mo or $111 a year for you Americans) and well worth the cost, especially considering you basically get free, searchable access to the Oxford Companion to Wine ($65) and the World Atlas of Wine ($50) as part of the subscription costs. Click here to sign up.

Image of Nick Solga and Katie Bower courtesy of Nick Solga.

from Long Road Ahead for Wine Country

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Vinography Unboxed: Week of November 5, 2017

Hello, and welcome to my periodic dig through the samples pile. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.

This week included among other things, one of California’s most iconic Chardonnays, which, true-to-form, was racy and angular and bright and ready for the long haul, which will probably make it even better in 5 to 10.

Also in the white category, Viticcio offered a pleasant Vermentino that has a picture-perfect blend of pear and white peach flavors.

Moving into reds, there are two more Pinots this week from the little biodynamic producer that could, Big Table Farm in Oregon.

Continuing with my Italian connection this week, I’ve got two more Barolos to review, one from Vietti — the Castiglione — which continues to be one of the better values in Barolo, and then the reserve bottling from Oddero, which is only just starting to be drinkable in its advanced age.

Finally, Vitticio also offered a very competent Chianti Classico this week, which I very much recommend.

All these and more below. Enjoy.

2015 Stony Hill Chardonnay, Spring Mountain District, Napa, California
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of pomelo zest and lemon juice. In the mouth, wonderfully lean lemon juice and pink grapefruit pith flavors linger for a long while in the finish. Razor fine and zippy. Excellent acidity and length. 13% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $35. click to buy.

2015 Sanford Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California
Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of toasted nuts, cold cream and melted butter. In the mouth, nutty flavors of lemon curd and pink grapefruit have a slight bitterness, with the tang of citrus zest. Excellent acidity and length. Subtle wood influence makes this refreshing and tasty. 14% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $24. click to buy.

2016 Viticcio “Greppico” Vermentino, Tuscany, Italy
Light greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of pears, white flowers, and peaches. In the mouth, peachy and pear flavors have a nice citrus snap thanks to excellent acidity. Notes of white flowers linger in the finish. Tasty. 13% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $30.

2015 Big Table Farm “Cattrall Brothers Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of raspberry leaf, black tea, and dried flowers. In the mouth a muscular skein of tannins wraps around a juicy core of raspberry, raspberry leaf, and wet earth flavors that linger for a long time with citrus brightness through the finish. A serious wine that is currently wound up tightly and will likely blossom with time. Excellent acidity and balance. 13.3% alcohol Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $48. click to buy.

2015 Big Table Farm “Wirtz Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Light ruby in color, this wine smells of black cherry and earth. In the mouth, dark cherry flavors mix with wet earth and a touch of citrus beneath a cloud of fine grained tannins. Wonderful earthiness and great acidity make this a distinctive and delicious package. 13.9% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $48. click to buy.

2013 Vietti “Castiglione” Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
Medium ruby in color, this wine smells of strawberries, cherries and dried flowers. In the mouth, muscular tannins grip the palate as flavors of strawberry, citrus and dried cherry mix with notes of earth and dried flowers. Excellent acidity and great balance. Very young at this point, this wine would benefit from 5 to 10 years cellaring. 14% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2007 Oddero “Vigna Rionda – Riserva” Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
Medium brick red in color, this wine smells of oak and rose petals and dried cherries. In the mouth, brown sugar and dried cherries mix with leather and earth, as scents of dried flowers linger in the finish. Thick, putty-like tannins coat the mouth, making me wonder how severe this wine would have been 10 years ago. 15% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $150. click to buy.

2016 Olianas Cannonau, Sardinia, Italy
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of strawberry and herbs. In the mouth, strawberry, wet earth and herbs mix with a minerally brightness. Faint but muscular tannins hang around the edges of the palate. 14% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $17. click to buy.

2013 Viticcio “Prunaio – Gran Selezione” Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of dark cherry and cocoa powder. In the mouth, cherry, tobacco leaf and wet earth flavors are shot through with a wonderful citrus brightness and a touch of dried flowers. Faint, powdery tannins grip the edges of the palate as the wine finishes clean and juicy. Excellent acidity and length. 14% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $35. click to buy.

from Vinography Unboxed: Week of November 5, 2017

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Vinography Images: Sunset Spire

Sunset Spire
POMEROL, FRANCE: The sunset frames the spire of a church looking across the vineyards of Chateau Pétrus in Pomerol, on Bordeaux’s Right Bank. Pétrus became famous in the late 1800s after winning a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition, beating out many more famous estates. One of the most expensive and sought-after wines in the world, Pétrus is widely regarded as the single best bottling of Merlot to be found, and remains the shining star of the Pomerol apellation, which has never been classified. Consequently it cannot truly be called a First Growth, though it clearly ranks among them in both price and quality.

INSTRUCTIONS:
Download this image by right-clicking on the image and selecting “save link as” or “save target as” and then select the desired location on your computer to save the image. Mac users can also just click the image to open the full size view and drag that to their desktops.

To set the image as your desktop wallpaper, Mac users should follow these instructions, while PC users should follow these.

BUY THE BOOK:
This image is from a series of photographs captured by Andy Katz in the process of shooting his most recent work The Club of Nine, a visual exploration and celebration of Bordeaux’s top Chateaux. The book is available for $60 on Andy’s web site.

PRINTS:
If you are interested in owning an archive quality, limited edition print of this image please contact Andy directly.

ABOUT VINOGRAPHY IMAGES:
Vinography regularly features images by photographer Andy Katz for readers’ personal use as desktop backgrounds or screen savers. We hope you enjoy them. Please respect the copyright on these images. These images are not to be reposted on any web site or blog without the express permission of the photographer.

from Vinography Images: Sunset Spire

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5.10 – Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2012

from 5.10 – Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2012

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Wine News: What I'm Reading the Week of 11/5/17

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

A Heavy-Handed Marriage Of White Wine And Oak Endures
Because people like it

Are Wine Choices in the Blood?
Oliver Styles argues it doesn’t matter.

When Critics Get It ‘Wrong’
Be kind, exhorts Matt Kramer.

A ‘Wine Lover’s Daughter’ Savors Her Dad’s Vintage Story
Only tangentially about wine…

Northern California grape growers begin to face smoke taint damages
Esther Mobley continues her excellent coverage.

Understanding Smoke Taint
A good overview.

Purgatory Cellars Makes Wine Using Ancient Croatian Traditions
Amphora wines in Colorado, no less.

Isabelle Legeron Is Leading the Natural Wine Revolution
BonAppetit offers something of a paean.

Wine Country fires destroyed 8,889 structures
The numbers keep rising

Wine thief steals 55 bottles of red from Lake Tahoe grocery
That scarf looked suspicious from the get-go.    

The Rise of Chardonnay in Central Willamette Valley
Elaine Brown looks at Oregon Chard.

How California Wine Country is Rebuilding After the Fires
Slowly but surely.

A Wine Wizard Speaks Luck, Genius And Fortune
Tom Mullen on Henri Duboscq

Winemakers warming to reality of climate change, but issue is sensitive
Wildfires seem constant excuses to discuss such things…

Why It’s Time to Stop Fetishizing Wine Expertise
Interesting article, but are sommeliers are fetishized any more than other craft celebrities?

Is it Better for Wines to Focus on Strength or Complexity?
Does it really have to be an either / or?

from Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 11/5/17

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